A Ukrainian Midsummer Dinner

“There is no better way to learn a culture other than through food.”

“We have been planning this dinner for such a long time,” Chef Helen Chudakova-Sanya said with a smile. “And seeing it come together is such an amazing thing. Lancaster is my new home, but I feel like I’ve been here for such a long time.”

Crowded around long, family-style farmhouse tables in the dining room and lower level of On Orange in downtown Lancaster, 60 or so neighbors and friends alike eagerly awaited Chef Chudakova-Sanya’s four-course Ukrainian Midsummer dinner. 

The evening was a labor of love for Chudakova-Sanya—who is a Ukrainian immigrant and recent Lancaster transplant, by way of Brooklyn—and her many friends, who helped plan, promote, cook, and serve the dinner. The proceeds from the evening benefitted more than two dozen of Chudakova-Sanya’s family members and friends who are still living in Ukraine, as Russia’s invasion of and war in Ukraine continues

“There is no better way to learn a culture other than through food,” Chudakova-Sanya wrote in a message placed at each guest’s seat when they sat down to dinner. “Our hardships, history, and rich culture made us strong and taught us how to appreciate life. I do not know how much longer this horrid war will continue. However, I know I have never been more proud of my heritage and my people.”

The beautiful evening began with drinks on the patio: your choice of uzvar (a non-alcoholic water-based drink, infused with dried and smoky fruit) or a summer-inspired cocktail of black currant syrup, fresh rosemary, and gin. To accompany our toasts to the evening to come, Anna Kozyar-Grutman, a Ukrainian singer who recently arrived in the U.S., performed as the summer sunset.

Then, time for the main event: Chef Chudakova-Sanya’s farm-to-table Ukrainian dinner. An ode to summer squash — including squash caviar, pattypan fritters, and sautéed zucchini with garlic scape aioli — featured delightful, light flavors, highlighting the beauty of our local summer produce here in Lancaster County.

Then, my favorite dish of the evening: Chudakova-Sanya’s Aunt Halyna’s vareniki (dumplings stuffed with potato and caramelized onion and lots of dill). Our table did our best to savor these delicious dumplings, but it was difficult not to dive in.

The main course: borsch with duck and smoked pears – served with another favorite, pampushki (flavor-packed garlic brioche buns that disappeared as soon as they arrived at the table). 

And for dessert — poppy seed cake served with fresh cream, locally-grown elderberries picked that day, and the instructions to make friends with your table-mates and neighbors as you sliced into this divine ode to summer.

“Tonight, we are all Ukranians,” Chudakova-Sanya wrote. “Throughout this dinner, I would like for you to remember that you are all connected to my family, friends, and ancestors.”

Local business partners for the dinner included: Lancaster Creative Factory, Lancaster Farmacy, Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op, Lemon Street Market, On Orange, Thistle Finch Distillery, Zest! Lititz

To contribute: Donations are being accepted via Venmo to @Helen-Sanya.

Join Chef Chudakova-Sanya at the Zest! Cooking School this summer. For her full class schedule and to register, visit zestchef.com/cooking-classes.

By Maddy Pontz